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Any leather produced with a tannic acid bath made from vegetable matter (usually the bark of oak trees and water) is called veg-tan leather. The skin, usually steer hide, is immersed in a series of baths over a period of several days. As the hide progresses from one bath to the next, the concentration of the tannic acid is increased to ensure that the leather is properly tanned from the inside out. Through this series of baths, the hide becomes a piece of leather.
Characteristics of veg-tan leather are its firmness, strength and lack of elasticity. Veg-tan leathers are commonly used in western belts, saddles, harness, shoe soles, and some luggage. Veg-tan leather is often marketed as carving leather, harness leather, or sole leather depending on the application. Western saddles are normally constructed of veg-tanned carving leather while English saddle makers use chrome tanned leathers.
This tanning process requires a combination of ingredients in which chromium is the dominant chemical. This leather is produced in large tumbler vats similar to cement mixers. The process usually takes about 24 hours and produces a leather which is more supple and has enough elasticity to be lasted (stretched over a last to make a shoe). Veg-tanned leather will tend to crack if lasted.
Chrome-tan leathers are commonly used in such products as shoe uppers, dress belts, hand bags, almost all leather clothing, and gloves. Chrome-tan leathers are often marketed as garment leather, glove-tan leather or suede.
Any veg-tan or chrome-tan leather that uses the natural surface of the
animal's skin after the hair has been removed is top grain leather.
Any piece of leather in which the top or natural surface of the skin has been removed. The resulting under layer is then re-tanned and has an artificial surface placed on the leather with a combination of binders and pigment coats.
Suede is also a split; however, after the top grain surface has been removed the under piece is buffed up to give the soft nap characteristic of suede.
Both top grain and split leathers may be legally marketed as genuine leather.
This is a type of chrome-tan leather which is usually drum dyed and split to a thickness of one to three millimeters. The drum dying allows the pigments to penetrate the leather giving it a much softer feel and richer, deeper color. Depending on the thickness, it is used for skirts, dresses, jackets, and pants and assorted items of apparel.
This leather is a composite of leather dust and particles, and glue. Similar to particle board in its construction, it comes on rolls and is most often used to make inexpensive belts and shoes. Bonded leather manufacturers may not use the term "genuine" in reference to their product.
As its name implies, rawhide is simply the dried skin of the animal with the hair removed. It is not considered leather as it has not been through the tanning process. Rawhide is characteristically soft and very pliable when wet....but dries hard and sinewy. Rawhide is used to cover saddle trees, cantle and horn bindings...and is very popular in the making of braided horse gear.
A very durable product, latigo is a chrome/veg
retan, or a veg/alum retan product available in a rich burgandy or black.
This leather is hot stuffed with oils and fat liquors to be supple and
weather resistant. This gives the leather a water repellant property and
is excellent for cinch straps, reins, saddle strings and for lining back
cinches and breast collars.
